Guida
Ushijima Shrine is a historic Shinto shrine located in Mukojima, Sumida-ku, Tokyo. Formerly known as "Ushi Gozen-sha," it has long been revered as the guardian deity of the Honjo area. One of its most famous features is the "Nadeushi" (撫牛), a stone bull statue. According to legend, stroking the part of the bull that corresponds to your own aching body part will help heal your ailment. Visitors are also greeted by the striking "Mitsu-Torii" (Three-Way Torii), a rare and unique gate structure that stands before the main hall.
The shrine's origins date back to the Jogan era (859–879 AD). It is said to have been founded following an oracle from an old man who was an incarnation of Susanoo-no-Mikoto, received by the priest Jikaku Daishi Ennin. During the Kamakura period, the shrine gained prominence after the Chiba clan prayed here for a safe river crossing of the Sumida River by Minamoto no Yoritomo's forces. Originally, the shrine was located about 500 meters north of its current site, but it was relocated to its present location in 1932 following the Great Kanto Earthquake and the expansion of the Sumida Embankment.
The "Nadeushi" is a must-see; visitors often touch the stone bull to pray for physical health. The Mitsu-Torii gate offers a unique visual experience unlike any standard shrine gate. Furthermore, the shrine holds a deep connection to the legendary ukiyo-e artist Katsushika Hokusai. While the original large votive tablet (ema) he dedicated in 1845 was lost in the Great Kanto Earthquake, a life-sized black-and-white photograph of the piece is displayed within the main hall. The colors of this artwork were reconstructed in 2016 and can also be studied at the nearby Sumida Hokusai Museum.
The shrine grounds are open for visitors to experience at any time. A significant event is the Shinko-sai festival, held once every five years, featuring a unique procession where black Wagyu cattle are pulled as sacred oxen. While there is no specific recommended time of day, visiting during the quiet morning hours allows for a peaceful-minded prayer away from the city's bustle.
The shrine grounds are filled with historical stone structures, such as stone Komainu (guardian lions) and various stone weights (rikishi-ishi), which tell the story of the region's history. Engaging in the tradition of touching the Nadeushi provides a tangible way to connect with Japanese spiritual customs and the concept of healing through prayer.
Ushijima Shrine is situated within Sumida Park, making it an ideal stop during a stroll through the park. It is also considered the guardian deity of the Tokyo Skytree area, allowing you to combine a visit to the shrine with sightseeing at the Skytree. The nearby Sumida Hokusai Museum is also highly recommended for those wishing to dive deeper into the art of Hokusai.
Please observe standard Shinto shrine etiquette during your visit. For offerings (osaisen), please use cash. While photography is generally permitted, please remain respectful of the sacred atmosphere, especially if a ritual is in progress. There is no specific dress code, but comfortable walking shoes are recommended. Please maintain a quiet and respectful demeanor throughout the grounds.