Toko-ji Sarumai

Overview and Charm

Sarumai, performed at Tokoji Hiyoshi Shrine in Shimada City, Shizuoka Prefecture, is a traditional performing art designated as a Shizuoka Prefectural Intangible Folk Cultural Property in 1977. While monkeys often play supporting or comedic roles in many Japanese festivals, in Sarumai, the monkey is the protagonist. The sight of the monkey, considered a messenger of the gods, dancing elegantly to the rhythm of music is a unique characteristic of this region.

History and Cultural Background

Tokoji is an ancient temple of the Tendai sect, said to have been founded by Jikaku Daishi in 830 AD. The Hiyoshi Shrine within the temple grounds maintains a belief in monkeys as divine messengers, a tradition linked to the Hiyoshi Shrine in Otsu, Shiga Prefecture. The roots of Sarumai are believed to stem from 'Sarugaku' of the Heian period or 'Dengaku' of the medieval era. Formerly known as 'Sarumai' (monkey dance), this tradition has been passed down through the management of Tokoji since before the separation of Shinto and Buddhism in the Meiji era. It serves as a vital cultural heritage rooted in the community to pray for bountiful harvests and to ward off evil spirits.

Main Highlights

The greatest charm lies in the performance by local elementary school students, who wear monkey masks to perform the dance. There are two types of masks: the 'Osu' (male), which has four lines of kumedori for a fierce expression, and the 'Mesu' (female), which has three lines for a gentle expression; these are known as the 'Parent and Child Monkeys.' The dance is accompanied by the sounds of seven musicians playing flutes and drums. The repertoire includes three types of dances: 'So-moro-moro no Mai' (the dance of the couple), 'Ogi no Mai' (the solo dance of the male monkey), and 'Honmai' (the energetic dance of the couple), each offering a different atmosphere.

Best Time to Visit

You can witness Sarumai during the 'Tokoji Hiyoshi Shrine Annual Festival' held on the second Saturday of April every year. During this time, the surrounding nature begins to sprout with fresh greenery, creating a serene spring atmosphere for the ritual. The main dance usually begins around 2:00 PM. Since this coincides with the season of cherry blossoms and fresh greenery, you can enjoy the traditional performing arts alongside the beautiful natural environment.

Experience and Activities

When watching the performance, you can feel the intense energy of the festival. At the end of the ritual, as the deity moves deeper into the shrine, there is a moment where people shout 'Oooooo' and distribute branches of Sakaki (sacred Cleyera japonica). These branches are cherished by the local community as charms to ward off evil. It is a rare opportunity to witness the authentic structure of a traditional Japanese ritual up close.

Surrounding Area

To reach Tokoji, there is a walking route from Rogo Station on the Tokaido Line. The path along the Tokoji Yagawa stream is a lovely walking trail where you can enjoy the sound of the flowing water and seasonal flowers. Additionally, the Shimada area offers many local eateries where you can enjoy regional food culture while exploring the historical landscapes of the area.

Items to Bring, Clothing, and Etiquette

• *Payment**: Cash is required (for donations during the festival or for nearby shopping).
• *Language Support**: Official English support for signage or staff is limited.
• *Reservations**: No prior reservation is required for viewing, but it is recommended to check the specific event dates in advance.
• *Clothing**: Since you may be walking through natural terrain with some uneven surfaces, comfortable walking shoes are highly recommended. Please be careful of muddy ground if it rains.
• *Photography**: Please be considerate of the ritual's progress and avoid disrupting the ceremony.
• *Accessibility**: Please note that the shrine grounds contain stone steps and natural terrain, which may present challenges for mobility.