Guida
"Muko-nage & Sumi-nuri," held every year on January 15th in Matsuyama Onsen, Tokamachi City, Niigata Prefecture, is a traditional celebration of the Little New Year (Onna-shogatsu). This is a unique culture born from the deep snow country and is often regarded as one of Japan's three most unusual festivals. The event features two highly energetic rituals: 'Muko-nage,' where a newlywed groom (the 'first son-in-law' of the year) is thrown onto a snowy slope, and 'Sumi-nuri,' where participants smear black ink on each other's faces. These rituals have been preserved for hundreds of years to strengthen community bonds and pray for marital harmony, family happiness, and good health.
The origins of this event date back approximately 300 years to the mid-Edo period. One theory suggests it began as a rite of passage for grooms who married local daughters from outside the community. It is also said to be a transformed expression of local sentiments regarding the marriage of local women to outsiders. Today, it is an established cultural event to celebrate marriage and wish for domestic bliss. The 'Sumi-nuri' ritual is rooted in local beliefs involving the use of ash from 'Dondo-yaki' (burning New Year's decorations). These traditions are designated as intangible folk cultural properties of Tokamachi City, representing a precious piece of Japan's spiritual heritage.
The highlights of the festival unfold during the afternoon with two main events. First, during 'Muko-nage' in front of the Yakushido shrine, the newlywed groom is thrown from a height of about 5 meters onto a snowy slope by local youths. The sight of the groom rising with a smile despite being covered in snow brings great excitement to the crowd. Next, during 'Sumi-nuri,' participants use 'ink' made by mixing ash from the post-ritual fire with snow to smear black ink on each other's faces while shouting 'Congratulations!' Seeing tourists, locals, and even police officers all turning black with ink creates a dynamic and unforgettable scene unique to this festival.
Since this event is held annually on January 15th, the best season is the peak of winter. The schedule is generally as follows: 'Muko-nage' begins around 2:00 PM, followed by 'Sumi-nuri' around 3:00 PM. Because it takes place on snowy slopes in a cold environment, you can feel the intense, energetic atmosphere typical of the snow country amidst the winter scenery. Expect very low temperatures and deep snow.
In the 'Sumi-nuri' ritual, spectators are encouraged to participate actively. By having your face smeared with black ink, you can experience a sense of unity with the local community. After the festival, you can use nearby hot spring facilities to wash off the ink. This experience, blended with the culture of the hot spring town, offers something much deeper than mere sightseeing. However, please prepare for the mess.
The venue, Matsuyama Onsen, is a high-quality hot spring area often cited as one of Japan's three great medicinal springs. After the festival, you can warm your body at a nearby inn. The area is also known for the 'Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennale,' where beautiful art pieces are scattered throughout the snowy landscape. You can enjoy the contrast between the quiet winter scenery and the intense energy of the festival.
As the event is held on snow, careful preparation is essential. First, choose clothing that you don't mind getting dirty and bring a change of clothes. For 'Sumi-nuri,' we highly recommend wearing a disposable poncho or waterproof gear, as your face and clothes will turn black. Non-slip shoes are a must to prevent slipping on the snow. Additionally, prepare heavy winter gear such as thick coats, gloves, and hats for warmth. Note that occupying space for photography is prohibited. While the festival itself is free to watch, cash or transport IC cards are useful for nearby transportation and facilities.