Guide
Ushijima Shrine is a historic shrine located in Mukojima, Sumida City, Tokyo. Formerly known as Ushigozen-sha, it has long been revered as the guardian deity of the Honjo area. One of its most famous features is the "Nadeushi" (撫牛), a stone bull statue. According to legend, stroking the part of the bull that corresponds to your own physical ailment will help heal it. Another striking feature is the "Mitsu-Torii," a rare three-tiered gate structure that welcomes visitors into the sacred grounds.
The shrine's origins date back to the Jogan era (859–879 AD). It is said to have been founded following a divine revelation received by the monk Jikaku Daishi Ennin from an old man who was the incarnation of Susanoo-no-Mikoto. During the Kamakura period, the shrine gained significant patronage from the Chiba clan after Chiba Tsunetoki successfully prayed for his army to cross the Sumida River safely. Originally located about 500 meters north of its current site, the shrine was moved to its present location in 1932 following the Great Kanto Earthquake and the subsequent expansion of the Sumida Embankment.
A must-see attraction is the "Nadeushi." Visitors can touch the stone bull to pray for physical health and recovery. The Mitsu-Torii gate in front of the main hall is also a unique architectural sight, distinct from standard shrine gates. Furthermore, the shrine holds a deep connection to the legendary ukiyo-e artist Katsushika Hokusai. Although the original large-scale Ema (votive tablet) titled "Susanoo-no-Mikoto Yakujin Taiji no Zu," which Hokusai is said to have dedicated in 1845, was lost in the Great Kanto Earthquake, a full-scale black-and-white photograph of it is currently displayed inside the main hall. The colors of this artwork were reconstructed in 2016 and can also be seen at the Sumida Hokusai Museum.
The shrine grounds are open for visitors to come and pray at any time. A special highlight is the Shinkosai festival, held once every five years, which features a unique procession where a sacred black Wagyu bull pulls the divine carriage (horen). While there are no specific recommended times for different seasons, visiting during the quiet morning hours offers a peaceful moment away from the city's bustle.
Visitors can enjoy exploring the many historical stone structures on the grounds, such as the Komainu (guardian lion-dogs) and various stone weights (rikishi) that tell the story of the area's past. Engaging in the tradition of touching the Nadeushi provides a tangible way to connect with Japanese spiritual practices.
Ushijima Shrine is situated within Sumida Park, making it an ideal stop during a stroll through the park. It also serves as the guardian deity for the nearby Tokyo Skytree, allowing travelers to combine a visit to the shrine with sightseeing at the Skytree or the Sumida Hokusai Museum to deepen their understanding of Japanese art.
Please observe basic shrine etiquette during your visit. Most offerings (Saisen) require cash. While photography is generally permitted, please be respectful and quiet if a sacred ritual or ceremony is in progress. There is no specific dress code, but comfortable walking shoes are recommended. Please maintain a respectful and quiet demeanor throughout the sacred grounds.