Guide
Tsuruoka Tenjin Matsuri is a traditional annual event held in late May at Tsuruoka Tenmangu Shrine in Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture. This festival has been cherished and passed down through generations by the local community, centered around the worship of Sugawara no Michizane, the deity of learning. During the festival, the city comes alive with various festivities, including float processions accompanied by the rhythmic sounds of drums and flutes, powerful portable shrine (mikoshi) parades, and the highly unique 'Bakemono Matsuri' custom.
The origins of this festival date back to the Edo period. It is said to have begun when the Sakai clan, the lords of the Shonai domain, enshrined a spirit of Sugawara no Michizane—brought from the Kitano Tenmangu Shrine in Kyoto—at Tsuruoka. Sugawara no Michizane was a political figure of the Heian period and is widely revered across Japan as the 'God of Learning.' The historical context of his legacy, involving the widespread establishment of shrines to honor his talent, has shaped the development of the Tsuroaka Tenjin Matsuri. Under the protection of the local lords during the Edo period, it established itself as a vital regional ritual.
There are several key attractions during the Tsuruoka Tenjin Matsuri. First is the 'Float Procession' (Yatai Gyoretsu), where decorated floats from local neighborhoods parade through the streets to the sounds of drums and flutes. Second is the 'Mikoshi Togyo' (Portable Shrine Parade), where children carry small shrines during the day and adults carry larger, more powerful ones in the evening, filling the streets with energetic shouts. Third is the 'Dedication of Traditional Performing Arts,' where dances such as Shishimai (Lion Dance) and Kagura are performed within the shrine precincts. Fourth, and perhaps most unique, is the 'Bakemono Matsuri.' Participants wear traditional floral long undergarments (juban) and hide their faces with hand towels (tenugui) and woven hats (amigasa) while carrying offerings, creating an iconic and mysterious spectacle.
The festival is typically held around May 25th each year (for example, a preparatory festival on May 24th and the main festival on May 25th). Since it takes place during the beautiful season of fresh greenery in May, the daytime offers wonderful views of the colorful floats, energetic children, and the mysterious 'Bakemono' figures. As evening approaches, the atmosphere shifts with the heat of the mikoshi parades and the solemn beauty of the shrine illuminated by lanterns. Because the festival often occurs under clear May skies, visiting from the bright afternoon through the evening is highly recommended.
During the festival, many locals dress in traditional attire. In the 'Bakemono Matsuri' tradition, participants wear floral patterns, hand towels, and woven hats. Legend says that if one continues to worship in this attire for three years without their identity being discovered, their wishes will come true. Additionally, witnessing the dedication of traditional dances and Kagura provides a profound opportunity to touch the spiritual culture of Japan.
The center of the festival is Tsuruoka Tenmangu Shrine and the surrounding urban areas of Tsuruoka City. The area is dotted with historical architecture and restaurants serving local delicacies. During the festival, the entire city is enveloped in excitement as crowds gather along the routes of the floats and shrines.