Guide
Kemari is a traditional Japanese ball game that was widely enjoyed by the aristocracy during the Heian period. The objective is to keep a ball—made of two pieces of deer leather sewn together—in the air by kicking it at a consistent height. Unlike many sports, it is not about winning or losing; instead, it emphasizes mental concentration and harmony, focusing on how gracefully one can pass the ball to a partner. Even today, the tradition is preserved through rituals and practice sessions where participants wear authentic historical costumes and follow ancient protocols.
The origins of Kemari trace back to movements introduced from China during the Asuka and Nara periods. It flourished during the Heian period as a courtly pastime for the Emperor and the nobility. The importance of the game grew significantly when Emperor Shirakawa participated in a match, leading aristocrats to establish dedicated practice areas known as 'Mari-ba' within their estates. From the Kamakura to the Muromachi periods, the game spread to the warrior class, evolving from a simple pastime into a refined 'art of movement' (Geido) favored by the Shogunate.
During the Edo period, while it gained popularity among commoners, the transition from a 'participatory culture' to a 'spectator culture' occurred due to changes in technique and strict regulations by traditional families. Although it faced a decline following the Meiji Restoration, the 'Kemari Preservation Society' was established in 1907 following the wishes of Emperor Meiji, ensuring that the traditional forms are protected to this day.
The greatest appeal of Kemari lies in its elegant movements and the stunning traditional attire. Participants wear distinctive period clothing such as 'Tate-eboshi' (tall caps), 'Kemari-mizuhiki' (tunics), 'Kemari-hakama' (traditional trousers), and 'Kamokutsu' (traditional footwear). The rhythm of the game is also a highlight, characterized by unique vocal calls like 'Ari,' 'Ya,' and 'O' to coordinate the players. An ideal kick reaches a height of approximately 4.5 meters, and great attention is paid to the rotation and the sound of the ball hitting the foot.
Kemari is often performed during specific seasons or as part of shrine rituals. For example, you can witness 'Kemari Hatsume' (New Year's Kemari) at Shimogamo Shrine in January, the 'Kigen-sai' festival at Kamigamo Shrine in February, and various annual festivals at Shiramine Shrine in April and July. Opportunities to observe or participate vary by location; for instance, Minase Shrine holds practice sessions on the 1st and 3rd Sundays of the month from March to July and September to November. In modern settings, sessions often follow a natural progression, concluding when the sun sets or when participants reach a natural stopping point.
Today, efforts to preserve these traditional skills are centered around the Kyoto area. In Kyotamba, Kyoto, the 'Kemari Mariyu-kai' group preserves the techniques of 'Hanname' (traditional leather tanning) used in making the balls. Additionally, the 'Minase-no KEMARI Club' in Osaka occasionally hosts workshops where you can experience wearing traditional attire. These are precious opportunities to learn not just the game, but also the craftsmanship of the balls and the historical etiquette involved.
Key locations associated with Kemari include historic shrines in Kyoto, such as Shimogamo Shrine, Kamigamo Shrine, Shiramine Shrine, and Fujimori Shrine, as well as Minase Shrine in Osaka. These areas are surrounded by beautiful architecture and nature, making them perfect for combining a cultural visit with general sightseeing.
When participating in a Kemari ritual or experience, traditional attire is typically provided or required. For general spectators, there is no specific dress code, but it is respectful to dress modestly when visiting shrines.